​Natural stone stacked ledgestone and split face stone cladding are popular wall covering options for many applications, including fireplaces and feature walls.
The success of any installation depends on the job preparation and ledgestone requires several techniques which differ from a regular tile installation, because of the weight and thickness of the stone. So, to ensure the success of your ledgestone installation, make sure to follow these tips!
 
First, natural stone ledgestone is heavy and the extra weight on the building assembly needs to be accounted for.  Use a calculation of ~15lbs per sqft to give you an idea how much extra load your wall, supporting floor and joist structure will have to handle.  It's recommended that you consult an engineer to ensure the added weight will be OK for your building. 
Likewise, installation over 10ft in height should also be approved by an engineer.  The engineer may require a ledger strip and or anchors will be used when installing ledgestone above 10ft. Always consult and follow local building codes before beginning your project.

Once your substrate has been approved for weight, you need to prepare the surface. There are two ways to prepare the wall substrate.

With the thinset still wet / fresh, press the ledgestone firmly into the wet mortar. Make sure to offset the seams as you install more pieces, for a staggered effect. If the thinset skims over before you can install the piece, remove the thinset and apply fresh thinset. 
Once you have finished installing the stone, wait for it to cure according to the manufacturer's guidelines. And you're done! 
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Enjoy your beautiful natural stone! ​

One of the most important considerations for tiling a floor is ensuring that your subfloor is strong and ready to tile. Tile cannot flex like vinyl or carpet, so if your subfloor is not rigid enough, you have potential for broken or popped tiles. After all of your hard work, this is the last thing you want!

There are several ways to reinforce your flooring to prepare it for tile, and here are three of them.

Depending on your space, the easiest option may be to add a sheet of plywood over top of your OSB subfloor. This option uses a 5/8" thick plywood over top of 5/8" OSB subfloor. Make sure to glue and screw this subfloor for extra rigidity and durability. Use standard plywood, NOT "good one side" plywood for a tile substrate, as it is hard for the thinset to adhere to it, and your installation may fail. 
Keep the plywood indoors 7-10 days prior to installation, so it can acclimate. When sheeting, leave a ¼” gap between sheets and fill it with thinset.
Screws are only to be the combined thickness of your subfloor + your base to which you are fastening to. You do not want to screw into joists. 
When sheeting an area that will be exposed to moisture it is better to use an uncoupling mat (see Option 3).​

This option is almost the same as Option 1, except that if your subfloor is thicker, you can use a thinner sheet of plywood over the top: 1/2" plywood over 3/4" OSB subfloor. Don't go less than 1/2" plywood for a tiled floor, otherwise it may warp. Glue this subfloor for rigidity and durability. Use standard plywood, NOT "good one side" plywood for a tile substrate, as it is hard for the thinset to adhere to it, and your installation may fail. 
Keep the plywood indoors 7-10 days prior to installation, so it can acclimate. When sheeting, leave a ¼” gap between sheets and fill it with thinset.
When sheeting an area that will be exposed to moisture it is better to use an uncoupling mat (see Option 3).

If you are limited in height (eg. accounting for a threshold or other fixed elements such as cabinets) the thinnest option is using an uncoupling membrane. Also, if the area you are tiling may be exposed to moisture, such as a bathroom or entryway floor, an uncoupling membrane is a more stable substrate than plywood. Plywood expands when it gets wet, and can compromise your installation. 
Übermat or Schluter Ditra are two brands available in 1/8" thick mat, resulting in only 3/4" thick overall height. The requirements for Übermat/ Ditra are joists that are max 16" on centre, and 5/8" thick OSB subfloor.
Tiles are installed over Übermat with thinset, and the shape of the mat creates "pillars" of thinset mortar which are incredibly strong, durable and resistant to movement. 
If your space meets the requirements, than Übermat/Ditra uncoupling membrane is a great substrate choice for tile!

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Tile may seem like an intimidating home renovation project, if you've never done it before, but like most other projects, success lies in proper preparation and tools. If you are prepared beforehand, then tiling is not difficult at all. If you have been considering starting a tiling project, then you are in the right place!

First, make sure you have the correct tools for the job. For a basic installation, materials you will need are tile, mortar thinset and grout. Certain applications may have other requirements (eg. waterproofing or substrate preparation) so check whether your project needs them. 
Subfloor and substrate are key factors to a successful tile installation. Check out this post for more information on subfloor requirements.  

For tools, you'll need a trowel, thinset and grout mixer, tile cutter or diamond blade, spacers, grout float, grout sponge, pails for mortar, grout and washing and a cleaning rag. We offer a wide range of tiling supplies here.

Grid preparation:
Take the time to create a grid layout for your project; doing so will result in a simple and straightforward installation.
Step 1: Determine which walls are square or not. (in most cases an exterior wall will be your most square wall.)
Step 2: Visually inspect the area and determine a logical/ aesthetic place to begin laying the first tile. Often this will be the centre of the wall or floor, but you may need to account for a fixed element or feature like a sink vanity, range hood or threshold to another room. 
Step 3: Measure the length and width of the room. Based on the tile and room size, calculate where the first tile will start and the last tile will end. If the last tile will result in a small cut tile (less than 1/2 full tile size), consider shifting the first laid tile back to offset the smaller cut on the opposite of the room. You don't want to have to try and cut miniscule pieces to fit along the edges. 

Once you've marked your grid, you are ready to move forward with installing the tile!​

This guide does NOT  apply to installation of epoxy or urethane grouts! This guide applies ONLY to standard cement based grouts.
 
Mixing Grout:
Pour water into a clean pail, add grout powder. Mix grout per manufacturer’s guidelines with mixing paddle or suitable mixing tool until well blended and free of lumps.
 
Spread Grout:
Use a grout float to spread grout over the tiles and into the grout joints. Spread at an angle to the grout joints, dually using the float to “squeegee” grout off the tile surface.
 
Wait too long and the grout will be difficult to wash off; wash too soon and the grout will wash right out of the joints!
Grout must be allowed proper time to “set up” in the grout joints before washing. Depending on grout brand, temperature and humidity, average wait time, is 10-30 minutes. (check manufacturer’s guidelines.) You can verify the grout readiness by touching a grout joint with a finger. If the grout sticks to your finger, it is too soft and will wash away with the sponge. If the grout does NOT stick to your finger you can proceed with initial washing.
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Initial wash:
Using a pail of clean water, wet a grouting sponge. Wring it out while leaving it fairly damp. Using a circular motion, wash the tiled area. The sponge should wash and massage the grout into the joints. Be gentle on the grout joints to avoid washing out all of the grout. Once the first wash is complete, wait before proceeding with the final wash.
The final wash will clean 99% of the remaining grout off the tiles. Use a pail of clean water and wet the sponge, but wring it out very well. Wash 1-2 tiles with each swipe, using only the clean side of the sponge. Rinse the sponge often to avoid spreading grout residue over the clean surface. Repeat until the tiled area is clean.
Once the grout is fully dried and cured from the wash, there may be a slight grout “haze” present on the tile surface. This can be dusted off with a dry rag. 
Depending on where the tile is, for example in a kitchen backsplash, you may want to seal the grout to guard against stains.

And then you're done! Take a step back and enjoy your beautiful tile! ​

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